Lush’s Luscious Vegan Lipsticks

So my eternal search for a great vegan, lipstick seems to have reached its conclusion, or certainly found two options which leave most bases covered. The first is from Lush. When I mentioned my love of Lush lipstick to a friend the other day she  told me that she wouldn’t go in the shop ‘because it smelt like a granny’s knicker drawer’. I know what she means, it can be a bit overpowering but from a vegan perspective it is pretty great.

There is a wide range of colours, each with a name which represents the feeling a person may get when wearing it. I now have 4, from left to right: Strong, Confident, Passionate and Glamorous.

The ingredients are as follows: Organic Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis) , Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia cerifera) , Talc , Rose Wax (Rosa damascena) , Titanium Dioxide , Tin Oxide – along with whichever mineral colour the lipstick requires. Jojoba oil is fabulous for the skin because it is substance that is very similar to human skin oil. It is also not irritating to the skin. The talc content can be problematic to some though so this is worth noting. I also know very little about the rose wax. Lush claim it is good for soothing irritated skin and I feel I should do a little more research into this.

‘Strong’ is my favorite colour, a orangy red which compliments my pale but slightly peachy skin tone. I’ve discovered that the trick to longevity is to use a good base of mineral foundation underneath it. I use a thin swipe of lip oil (usually rosehip oil) over my lips, once absorbed I use a concealer brush and pat my Lily Lolo mineral foundation into my lips. This protects them and stops you from getting those awful little bleed lines around your lips.

I love the colour ‘Confident’ too, it’s my Lourde lipstick but it is the least inclined to stay put so takes a fair bit of upkeep through the evening. The two pinks are great fun and the paler, ‘Glamorous’ has good staying power. If I’m honest I have only worn these for a few hours at a time, mostly due to the terror of rashy clown-mouth, my usual reaction to lip colour (in the bad old days when I didn’t realise I was allergic to carmine). I would be interested in other people’s experience with this, especially over an entire day.

My other big lipstick discovery has been from M&S and I will post about that in the next few days..

 

The start of my Vegan journey

It has been almost 2 years since my last post, and quite alot has changed. I have been on a journey which relates to my skin, physical and mental health (which are all intrinsically intertwined). We’ll start with make-up.

For those of you who have read my earlier posts and have an interest in very sensitive, allergy prone skin will know that after years of reasearch and endless flair-ups I realised that I was allergic to lanolin (a fat derived from the wool of sheep) and carmine (a red pigment taken from a type of beetle). I also react to beeswax. This would usually come in the form of contact dermatitis and eczema, in oozing patches on my face, lips and eyelids.

From these two discoveries I was able to begin to eliminate all sorts of products and understand the problems I had had with my skin from trying to keep it moisturized to wearing nice make-up. The make-up was the easiest to conquer. Pretty much every high-street and high-end brand uses carmine in their red pigmented items which incluedes everything from lipstick to blusher and ofted strong brown coloured eyeshadows.

So, there was only one option. I would start using only vegan make-up. It was that simple. All the things which caused my skin issues were dreived from animals. I also found that the mineral powder forms worked better, especially for foundation, as the powder sits on your skin rather than being absorbed into it.

There are wonderful brands out there, Inika, Concrete Minerals, LunatiCK, Neve Cosmetics, Sugarpill Cosmetics, OCC Vegan, to name but a few. The days of people seeing vegans as un-glamorous, sack-wearing wierdos seemed to be over. And this is just from the make-up perspective!

And it didn’t stop there! Superdrug in the UK jumped on the bandwagon and started to produce vegan cosmetics, their own brands (B, Simply Pure) are vegan and cruelty free. GOSH, another brand available in Superdrug is mostly vegan (they will email you a list of items that contain any animal derivatives if you email them). And my most recent and exciting discovery – good old M&S! Their cosmetic line is 100% cruelty free and mostly vegan too. I may no visit Boots half as much as I used to but the possibilities for someone like me is ever growing and that is truely fantastic!

(images from beautylish.com & lipglossiping.com)

Lipstick allergy test – the results!

The first thing I should probably mention is that the allergy test did not quite go to plan. I am allergIc to the glue in fabric plasters but am usually fine with the waterproof hypoallergenic type. However, I don’t usually leave a plaster on for 48 hours. This was my right arm after the plasters were removed (two patches):

As you will see both patches are pretty irritated. And my left arm below (three patches):

As you’ll see, my arms didn’t appreciate the plasters, however, my right arm was much worse than my left, even after a few hours when much of the plaster related irritation subsided. My right arm had Eyes Lips Face (E.L.F) Mineral Lipstick nearer the elbow and Beauty Without Cruelty Rosewood lipsticks near the wrist.

The first thing I did to try to see what the problem could be was to check EWG’s Skin Deep Cosmetics Database (http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/) and see what it came up with. Lo and behold, this is what  had to say: http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/product/472092/Beauty_Without_Cruelty_Natural_Infusion_Moisturizing_Lipstick,_Rosewood/. A long list of ingredient concerns, but in particular, Tocopheryl Acetate, a form of vitamin E combined with acetic acid to turn a beneficial ingredient into an irritating one ( more information here: http://www.annmariegianni.com/ingredient-watch-list-tocopheryl-acetate-the-potentially-irritating-form-of-vitamin-e). In fact the whole brand is noted as using a list of potentially irritating ingredients. I guess I’m learning that even the animal friendly brands can be pretty human unfriendly on occasion!

As for the e.l.f Eyes Lip Face Mineral Lipstick it seems the most likely irritating culprits are the Ceresin Wax which can cause allergic contact cheilitis (irritated lips) and the major nasty Retinyl Palmitate which has a hazardous score of 8 over at the cosmetics database – http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/705545/RETINYL_PALMITATE_%28VITAMIN_A_PALMITATE%29/

I found it harder to work out how my skin felt about the three on my left arm: Boots Natural Collection Moisture Shine Lipstick, Neve Cosmetics Pastello Pencil and Inika’s mineral lipstick. So I’ve decided to wear each for a day and see how I get on.

First up – Boots natural Collection in ‘Rose Bud’. I’ll let you know what my lips think…

Lipstick – things are never simple with sensitive skin..

I’ve been feeling a bit smug for the past few months. Finding that I was allergic to carmine and as a result finding lots of really great products which didn’t contain this ingredient opened up a new world of lovely products for me to try. I have found fantastic blushes (Inika’s mineral blushes are my favorite) and all sorts of eyeshadows too. No more cheek or eyelid reactions! Hurrah!

However, the one part of my face which still seems to be suffering still is my lips. In the past two months I have tried 5 different carmine free lipsticks from different brands. The outcome has been interesting. They each feel fine whilst on for the evening (no tingling or immediate reaction). However the following morning I’ve had anything from a mild reaction (dry cracked lips) to my old oozy, sore inflamed lips which I thought I’d be free of since I avoided carmine. This leads me to realise that there is something else in these products that is causing me problems.

I’m going to patch test each of the 5 products on the inside of my arm for 48 hours and see how they compare as a start. I will then have to use a process of elimination (ingredient by ingredient – zzzz) to see what I find. Here is a list of the products:

Inika Lipstick – Naked Ambition

Natural Collection Moisture Shine (Boots) – Rose Petal

Neve Cosmetics Pastello – Scarlett

Beauty Without Cruelty – Rosewood

E.L.F (eyes lips face) – Ripe Rose

My homemade patch tests:

I want to say now that I use each of these brands regularly, and have an assortment of products from each from blushes to eye colour which I have no problems with whatsoever. I want to try to find out what the sensitizing ingredients are in lipsticks for my skin.  I know that many people have no such issues and I am not suggesting that the ingredients are in any way dangerous.

I will let you know the outcome…

 

Carmine – My allergy bugbear

I thought I should write a little bit of explanation about my main cosmetic allergy, to the delightful ingredient ‘carmine’ (cochineal).

I am, like thousands of eczema sufferers, highly allergic to various things, including fragrance (both chemical and natural), lanolin (which is a shame because it is such a great emollient) and sodium laurel sulphate (which is in most shampoos and toothpaste along with most household cleaning products).

However, none of this explained why, since my earliest attempts with make-up, I couldn’t wear blush or lipstick without getting the most appalling rash, the oozing, swollen, itchy variety. Not nice. This was then followed by a couple of weeks of topical steroid treatment to get rid of it which isn’t ideal.

For years I tried different brands and it made no difference whether they were high-end or chemist, ‘hypoallergenic’ (a red-herring term if ever there was one) or ‘allergy tested’. I was beginning to completely despair when I found mention of someone with similar symptoms to me having sensitivity to something called ‘Carmine’. I did some research both online and in my own make-up collection and realised that every single blush, lipstick and bronzer I had ever bought contained it. I also discovered that this ingredient is in fact crushed, freeze-dried cochineal beetles which produces a pigments of red, violet, magenta, or orange, depending on its concentration. As a non-meat eater (though not vegan) I have to say I was fairly disgusted by this, and even more so when I discovered it is used as a food dye and can be found in sweets, yoghurt, drinks and sauces. Yuk.

As a result I have become an expert in it various names: Crimson Lake, Cochineal, Natural Red 4, Natural Colouring, C.I. 75470, or E120. Cosmetic and food companies like to give it new and interesting names.

The good news is that  I have also discovered some really wonderful cosmetics companies who won’t use this in their products for ethical reasons (if the brand is vegan it won’t contain any carmine or lanolin as they are both animal derivatives) and thankfully some other companies (non-vegan) who just chose not to use it. I can now wear blush and lipstick and its been really very exciting after all these years. I will review the best and hope to help any of you out there with similar allergies or who wouldn’t want to use it for ethical reasons.

 

Everyday Mineral Make-up Look – Just 5 Products

I thought I’d do a quick and easy make-up look to kick off our videos. I like my everyday make-up to be very simple and quick (no more than 5 minutes). I also only wanted to use just 5 products, especially as I feel that so may tutorials over complicate things with using dozens of products when really you just want to be able to keep things simple (and less expensive!)

The products used are:

Lily Lolo Mineral Foundation – Blondie/ China Doll (China Doll I used as concealer, but you can definitely use the same colour to do both jobs here).

Revlon ‘Vital Radiance’ brow fill-in powder – Blonde No 2

No 17 – Clear Mascara (fragrance free)

Inika Mineral Blush – Kiss Kiss (Vegan and Carmine free)

Almay ‘Triple Effect’ Mascara – Brown/Black

March Favorites: Inika Eyeshadows – Burnt Sienna and Copper Crush

I love Inika mineral make-up. They are a vegan brand so I can wear all of their blush colours and bronzers as they contain no carmine (which I am highly allergic to and is derived from cochineal beetles). I also have to check all eye shadow colours, especially the bronze/ gold shades as they often contain carmine too.

These two colours work so well together I thought I’d put them in the same post:

Inika’s mineral foundations, concealers, blushes and eye shadows all start with a base of Mica, Titanium Dioxide and Iron oxides. It is really unusual to be allergic to these ingredients so they are a really good choice for people like me who react to combinations of oils and pigments found in most make-up brands. Titanium Oxide (and Zinc Oxide) are some of the best ingredients found in sunscreens so this type of make up also works to protect your skin from sun damage.

The top one here is Burnt Sienna and the bottom in Copper Crush. If you use them with a damp, fine brush they can be painted on as a beautiful metallic eyeliner. I’ve done a very simple look in the picture below,m using copper crush as a base and burnt sienna as an eyeliner and in the eye-socket.

February Favorites No 5 – Maybelline Colour Tattoo Cream Eyeshadow

It is fun to have a bit of metallic sheen in your eye shadow especially if you want quite a dramatic effect. This gel-cream eye shadow by Maybelline is in the colour ‘On and On Bronze’ which is a really subtle shade of brown, and is perfectly wearable in the day without looking like you are going to a party. Creams and gels are great because you can apply them with your fingers much easier than a powder and I’ve also been wearing it as an eyeliner under my eye too instead of a pencil as it  gives a lovely soft edge and a tiny bit of shimmer. It is also carmine free (I have to check everything before I buy as the ingredient creeps into eye shadows too it seems…) especially the bronze/ gold shades.

February Favorites No 3 – Lily Lolo Foundation

I have struggled for years to find a foundation that didn’t upset my skin and have to take off after a couple of hours. I found mineral make-up by chance, while researching products that didn’t contain certain ingredients. The genius of mineral foundations is that that only consist of a few basic ingredients; Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide and Iron Oxides. It is really unusual to be allergic to these ingredients so they are a great choice for people like me who react to the normal combinations of oils and pigments found in most make-up brands. Titanium Oxide (and Zinc Oxide) are some of the best ingredients found in sunscreens so this type of make up also works to protect your skin from sun damage.

Lily Lolo is one of the more affordable mineral make-up brands and they sell small test jars through their website so you can try it on you skin initially without a lot of investment. The colour I have been wearing all winter is called ‘Blonde’. I am very pale, having been away from the sun for the better part of two years now and it matches my complexion without looking sallow. I would say it has a tiny peachy edge to it but almost unnoticeable. I also use it as a concealer.

February Favorites No 1 – Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Moisurizer

As this is the very end of the month (February – the most depressing month of the year IMHO) I though I’d post my 5 favorite products, the ones I couldn’t have lives without over the past 4 weeks. It has been ferociously cold at times this month and my skin has not been loving it. However, cold dry weather tends to be good for my eczema (though definitely not for the rest of me) so I’ve had a pretty easy month.

My first product is: PAULA’S CHOICE, Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer.

I am a huge fan of Paula’s Choice products. I will have to write a separate post about the brand in general and why it is so great, but for now I will say that this moisturizer is just perfect for my generally dehydrated and easily upset skin. It is not too thick but has a really silky consistency that is absorbed without stickiness. It is full of antioxidants and is very soothing for sensitive skin and rosacea. I haven’t been without this moisturizer for the past 4 years now and I really love it. The only down side is that it doesn’t have an SPF so is something I put on my skin at night or under a SPF of 15 or higher in the day.