Paris Fashion Week – Whelmed

It has taken me an entire week to get enough enthusiasm together to write something about Paris Fashion Week. It is usually the high point for me, where creativity and wearability collide with some happy bonkers moments too. I don’t know what is going on at the moment with regards the amount of fur being used by fashion houses. A few years ago, it was sporadic, tiny bits would pop up, perhaps on a collar or a cuff, but all 4 weeks have been awash with it, thousand and thousands of beautiful animals have been electrocuted and skinned alive because of people’s ignorance or refusal to face up to the horrors of the trade. Even friends seems to be jumping back on the bandwagon in the shape of little real fur pompom on a wooly hat or the dead rabbit gilet which ‘came from China’ as if that somehow makes it alright. It revolts me, it is a disgrace and anyone who buys into this evil trade needs to get over themselves and show some compassion.

As a result, I’m only going to show looks from houses that had no fur. As far as the rest goes, if you are interested; Dior had several mustard coloured catsuits – which, lets face it, will never be seen on anyone, Rochas, usually beautiful, had strange frilly, ill-fitting, boob covers on most of their dresses,  YSL was horrendous. The look was ‘Britney during breakdown with added Pat Butcher;’ ripped fish nets and pvc mini-dresses with zips that rose above your crotch, covered with a leopard print jacket. There is nothing innovative or high fashion about that. It is lazy and frankly an embarrassment to the famous name it is designed under. Do I sound angry? That is because I am. Even old misery features; Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel collection was hideous. Of fur he said: “I’m very sympathetic. I hate the idea of killing animals in a horrible way ………. It’s horrible, no? So I prefer not to know it.” He may not have shown any fur in Chanel’s show that I could see (Fendi however, was awash with it) but it looked like this:

chanel

Missoni on a bad day. Point made.

So, here are some looks by Stella and Vivienne, both unique and incredibly talented women who refuse to use fur, vegitarian and leaders in fashion. Who needs anything else?

stalla2

One beautiful winter coat and a wicked pair of platform boots (faux leather too – hurrah). Something slouchy, warm and chic to wear to the office:

stella4

And a (Westwood-esque), super-structured dress to wear in the evening:

stella5

Sure, these are all black/white or grey but hey, they go with anything.

Wonderful Dame Vivienne Westwood showed looks for both men and women. It has long been a gripe of my husband’s that men get such a short straw when it comes to fashion, their choices are so limited and they are forced to wear entirely pointless items such as ties in order to look acceptably ‘smart’. This is Vivienne Westwood’s perfect response to that:

westwood2

This coat looks amazing. There is no reason why men should be forced to wear only ‘masculine’ shapes. What the hell does that word mean anyway? Express yourselves and free yourselves from the boring world of men’s fashion! Set asside the polar fleece gilet and puffa jackets. Let’s get coat sharing! Apart from the possible size issues, I’m 100% for it!

Two gorgeous pieces:

westwood1

I love this top, it is classic Westwood, drapey and cinched at the waist. The trousers look great too, there isn’t enough grey pin-stripe in the world and turn ups can also become handy secondary storage areas if your pockets get full… And finally:

westwood 3

It may not catch on but I am a much happier person for having seen it. The end.

(all photos from vogue.com)

Milan Marmite Week AW 2015

After the lightheartedness of London Fashion Week I found myself in a bit of a fug at Milan’s offering. Ok, so they have some super big names but really, although it had its good moments it was awash with bad. And fur. Ugghh, so much fur, popping up in places where, dammit, it really took the piss (fur shoulder bows at Prada anyone?)

So, I’ll start with the good. Alberta Ferretti is always beautiful. A gorgeous warm looking cropped jacket and in white. I also can’t resist a Victorian looking white shirt or velvet over-knee boots it seems:

feretti3

She showed some beautiful brocade fabrics, I loved this suit:

feretti6

And my old friend the pinafore, this time almost medieval looking but beautiful non the less:

feretti9

Fendi was a bit all over the place but it started well. I think a large white winter coat is in order for next year:

fendi1

And a beautifully cut white winter dress:

fendi1

Prada was so wonderful for colour, shape and freshness and had no need for the endless fur additions. Many gorgeous dresses and jackets were ruined by random fur panels which I refuse to show. There was also a fascination with ostrich skin leather which was a bit much for me I’m afraid. However, here are some of the lovelies that got away without them:

prada4

This may be kinda crackers but it doesn’t mean I don’t appreciate its many lovely aspects.

prada2

I love camel coloured coats and I have no idea why this works, who puts metallic lime, scarlet and pink together and gets away with it. Fab.

Prada1

Maxmara was a bit of a snoozefest, but at least it was wearable:

maxmara1

Ditto Armani. I actually couldn’t find anything I was mad about, masses of identical trousers, some with flaps (!) and some without. Plus it went on an on…

Armani1

Dolce & Gabbana was pretty much exactly the same as it has been for every show for the past 6 or so seasons. All very spanish in feel, lovely shapes and lots of very wearable pieces, however, with slightly overwhelming themes of mothers and roses.This was pretty ravishing:

DG1

There was also some really quirky child-drawn fabric at the end.

DG3

Now for the less great. I’ll start with Gucci. I have nothing good to say about this collection. It felt lazy, self-important and just didn’t work. And don’t start me on the dead-dog shoes.. My evidence:

gucci2

Not even Alexa Chung would wear this (cue Alexa Chung proving me wrong).

gucci1

Ok, here is a nice print. But honestly, I really had to think about whether to show any of them given the shoe, fur situation and the ugliness of it all.

gucci3

Missoni was equally ugly. It felt like a bunch of cheap knits and matchign leggings you’d buy on Kat Moon’s stall on the market:

Missoni1

Versace still think they need to plaster their name on EVERYTHING in order to get people to wear it. Really?

versace1

I’m a Scorpio so I should love this but I don’t. Its hideous. Thanks Pucci:

pucci2

And finally. A whole lot of WTF. Am I missing something. The irony? The fact that it is so utterly awful that its brilliant?? Explain PLEASE!! Moschino:

moschino4

Not

moschino2

Even

moschino1

KIDDING.

(all photos from vogue.com)

 

Molecule 01 – A fragrance for those who can’t wear frangrance!

I had never heard of Molecule 01 before this week:

molecule01

I am totally allergic to fragrance/perfume, both essential oils and synthetic scents make my skin very upset (think nasty rash) so I have to wear it on my clothes or hair. This doesn’t bother me massively – but it would be nice to be able to spray something onto my skin.

Molecule 01 was recommended as it has no fragrance related ingredient – in fact the only ingredient is described as ‘Escentric Molecules Molecule 01: Iso E Super (65%)’. The company who make it claims it ‘smells different on everyone, but amazing on everyone’. They also say ‘The scent has a subtle, velvety, woody note which will meld with your natural pheromones, vanish, then re-surface after some time, making it totally individual and personalised to the wearer. You will rarely smell this fragrance on yourself, Molecule 01 perfume is more about the effect it has on others’.

Understandably I was keen to see if this was the answer to my perfume woes.

Well, the good news is that I had no adverse reaction to it on my skin at all, no irritation at all – score! The less good news is that it just doesn’t smell that great, a bit pine-fresh air freshener for my liking . On top of this, I really couldn’t smell much at all after the initial spray and I kept checking my wrists to see if the smell would ‘re-surface’. It didn’t. I asked both Victoria and my husband what they thought of the smell and they both looked a bit blank, indicating that I smelt of very little.

Maybe I’m not in turn with my pheromones (and maybe my husband isn’t either which would be a bit sad) or its rather a lot of hype about nothing.

But hey – no rash!

Louis Vuitton AW 2013 – I’m done

After I finish this post I am going to spend some finding a bunch of looks from the AW collections that I really love to cheer myself up because right now I feel like diving into a bottle of gin.

Marc Jacobs is an incredibly talented man. I can’t think of how many shows he has produced over the past decade or so for himself or LV that I have genuinely loved. But this week’s Louis Vuitton show was a collection of clothes you could buy from a bunch of not very exciting, high street chains (which I won’t name and shame) but that I avoid because they are boring and over priced. And their clothes are always in sludgy shades of everything.

louis-vuitton-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw7

Boring

louis-vuitton-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw16

Sludge

louis-vuitton-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw31

This is underwear

louis-vuitton-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw45

And even Kate Moss looks unhappy about that horrible thing on her head. This week has been bad wigtastic. I think the clothes were so dull in this show, all I looked at were the wigs. There is no excuse for that at Louis Vuitton, such a shame…

Jean Paul Gaultier AW 2013 – its getting worrying…

I have to say, at this point I’m really worrying about what on earth has been happening over in Paris for the last 6 months. I’ve been so disappointed with so many of the collections, and not just the clothes, the ‘looks’ have been nigh on ridiculous and not in a pleasing way.

Take Jean Paul Gaultier. He of the famous conical bra and macho sailor chic. Well, chic is not a word I would use for this:

jean-paul-gaultier-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw4

Its got a leather top, with vaguely conical boob stitching and lets call it an ‘edgy’ bit of sleeve detailing, in that it looks like it is falling off aided by a small bit of chiffon. There is a floaty skirt. They don’t work together and what one earth……….

jean-paul-gaultier-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw23

…has he put on Cara Delavigne’s head?? Or any of their heads? And what, for that matter, is that jacket made of? It looks like he has actually patched together bits of  real dyed fur to create his name (in an abstract way – natch) in the WORST COLOURS EVER!! That is gross on far too many levels…

jean-paul-gaultier-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw11

Luxe leather and fur off the shoulder sweatshirt?? And a ‘quick release over-sized belt skirt’.

jean-paul-gaultier-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw18

And finally – the batwing dress from hell, and I love a batwing…

(All pictures from fashionising.com)

KNITWEAR! Finally – Christian Dior AW 2013 (although I have concerns..)

As a knitwear designer I have been a wee bit disappointed by the lack of exciting, beautiful knits in the collections shown for AW 2013. I feel there may be a bit of a lull in that area which is really sad because everyone loves knitwear (even me and I’m allergic to wool) and we all need it to get through the nasty chilly months.

So I was very excited to see some eye-catching monochrome knits on the runway at Christian Dior. Then I think I furrowed my brow and wondered why they had added random appendages to take away from their otherwise total fabulousness…

So, to picture 1, everyone loves a knitted boob tube (that might not be true) and the skirt is really great, I’ve never seen the colour worked into the cables that way. But, why the crazy ruffle waist?? Nobody will actually wear that bit.

christian-dior-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw21

2: Cricket chic, cables from top to toe (I would suggest nobody ever do the top and bottom together but apart they would be very wearable.)

christian-dior-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw22

3: I love this, but not the flap. It is a flap appendage that has no purpose..

christian-dior-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw23

4: I’m not sure crochet over dog tooth is going to catch on but I’m still glad it make an appearance (crochet that is.)

christian-dior-autumn-fall-winter-2013-pfw26

(all pictures from fashionising.com)